Colombia

This post has a bunch of information to go along with the Colombia birds page. I’ve written a little bit about my experiences, highlighting the where’s, when’s, and who’s, and I included species lists for the photo albums for reference.

I lived in Bogotá from 2014 to early 2018, and was fortunate to explore many corners of the country. For each location included in these pictures, there are probably 5 more that I’ve seen and loved. My camera didn’t come with me everywhere, and I didn’t really start exploring photography until 2017 or so. Anything on this site that came from before then is probably just a lucky shot. Anywho, here’s some info for those curious enough to follow the link.

Santander
One of my favorite places in the world, both for rock climbing and birding, is called La Mojarra. It’s located near Mesa de los Santos in Santander, a quick 12-hour bus ride from the capital. I used to stay at Refugio la Roca back when they had a spot to pitch a tent. It’s still a great place to stay and eat, even if climbing isn’t your thing. In the mornings, before the sun went behind the rocks, there were a few hours to spend relaxing - or, in my case - strolling down the gravel road towards town snapping pictures of birds along the way. A lot of my pictures from 2015-2019 come from there. One lucky morning I managed to see - and photograph - an endemic chestnut-bellied hummingbird, but didn’t include the picture in the collection (it’s not my best work). Recently, a couple of friends have opened a new climbing park not far from there called Macaguato, where the very endemic Niceforo’s wren calls all day long. It’s another special place where I hope to spend more time in the future. There are a million other things to do in the region, and maybe I’ll write about them later.

Los Llanos
Between the Andes and the Amazon rainforest is a vast stretch of grassy wetlands called Los Llanos, famous for cowboy culture, vivid sunsets, and wildlife. Caiman, snakes, river dolphins, and capybaras (chigüiros) mingle with immense flocks of birds in what often feels like completely untouched wilderness. The habitat is similar to Brazil’s famous Pantanal, though I prefer the Colombian version. My first and only trip to the region was in February of 2018, an improvised adventure of two weeks between departmental capitals of Yopal and Villavicencio. I say adventure in the sense that each destination was chosen a day ahead, going by word of mouth to find places to pitch a tent and see what was out there. It was, without a doubt, one of the most rewarding travel experiences of my life. The highlight was the Ecolodge Juan Solito in Hato la Aurora, a stay that was punctuated by a sunset roosting event featuring thousands of herons and ibises all flocking simultaneously to five leafless trees, filling them with color and activity. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. The other stops in Paz de Ariporo, Orocué, Puerto Gaitán, and Puerto López, were also spectacular.

Minca
This one is a bit more on the tourist circuit, but still worth noting. Located thirty minutes into the Sierra Nevada mountains from Santa Marta, Minca has earned its title as an “ecological capital of Colombia” due to its enormous biodiversity. Tourism has been steadily increasing ever since they paved the road leading into town, and in my opinion, the hostels and restaurants don’t really detract from the peaceful vibes. There are swimming holes with waterfalls, little hikes, and a truly impressive birding checklist. There’s even a little laminated bird guide you can buy in town which sports over 350 species found in the area. I always call my friend Cristian Manrique (here’s his Instagram) when I’m there. He’s a local birding guide who knows and respects the fauna, and makes sure to tell me which of the birds are Santa Marta subspecies or endemics (it’s a crazy high percentage, and Cristian is convinced that many of them will eventually be reclassified as new species).

Camarones
This is a small town in la Guajira, not far from the city of Riohacha. A great local guide there is José Luis Pushaina, who is both a birding expert and a leader in the indigenous Wayuu community, where he also works in education and conservation. His website, Guajira Birding, is definitely worth a look.

Valle de Cauca
A lot of the 2019 pictures were taken near Cali, where birding is about as good as it gets. I spent a few days in the area with a local guide named Cristian, but haven’t been able to find him on social media. We went to a few spots to get good views of hummingbirds, tanagers, and whatever else. Doña Dora’s was one of those places, which is a roadside café/resto that has become famous for casual birding and a near guarantee of seeing toucan barbets (though we weren’t so lucky on our outing).

Other locations
There’s a spattering of random locations throughout these albums, like the Pacific coast, Cudinamarca, and Quindío. I’d be happy to share information about them if you’re curious - each is unique and beautiful.

Bird species lists:

2015-2017: 1. Smooth-billed ani (Crotophaga ani); 2. Scrub tanager (Tangara vitriolina); 3. American flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber); 4 Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus); 5. Vermillion flycatcher (m) (Pyrocephalus obscurus); 6. Scarlet macaw (Ara macao); 7. Glowing puffleg (Eriocnemis vestita); 8. Blue-headed parrot (Pionus menstruus); 9. Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoatzin); 10; Ladder-tailed nightjar (Hydropsalis climacocerca)

2018: 1. Great kiskidee (Pitangus sulphuratus); 2. Burrowing owl (Athene cunicularia); 3. Fork-tailed flycatcher (Tyrannus savana); 4. Pale-headed jacamar (Brachygalba goeringi); 5. Scarlet ibis (Eudocimus ruber), snowy egret (Egretta thula), great egret (Ardea alba); 6. Black-necked stilt (Himantopus mexicanus); 7. Blue and white swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca); 8 & 9. Blue-crowned parakeet (Thectocercus acuticaudatus); 10. Yellow-crowned amazon (Amazona ochrocephala); 11. Pied plover (Vanellus cayanus); ; 12. Fork-tailed flycatcher (Tyrannus savana); 13. Red-bellied macaw (Orthopsittaca manilatus); 14. Carib grackle (Quiscalus lugubris); 15. Lineated woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus); 16. Orange-bellied euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster); 17. White-tipped quetzal (Pharomachrus fulgidus); 18. Blue-naped chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea); 19. Rufous-tailed hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl); 20. Vermillion flycatcher (Pyrocephalus obscurus)

2019 (1): 1 & 2. Long-tailed sylph (Aglaiocercus kingii); 3. Smooth-billed ani (Crotophaga ani); 4 & 5. Green jay (Cyanocorax luxuosus); 6. Crested caracara (Caracara plancus); 7. Orinoco saltator (Saltator orenocensis); 8. Buffy hummingbird (Leucippus fallax); 9. Rufous-tailed jacamar (Galbula ruficauda); 10. Green-rumped parrotlet (Forpus passerinus); 11. Black-necked stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) & American flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber); 12. Roseate spoonbill (Platalea ajaja); 13. Sparkling violetear (Colibri coruscans); 14. Swallow tanager (Tersina viridis); 15. Thick-billed euphonia (Euphonia laniirostris); 16. Golden-winged sparrow (Arremon schlegeli); 17. Scaled pigeon (Patagioenas speciosa); 18. Keel-billed toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus)

2019 (2): 1. White-necked jacobin (j) (Florisuga mellivora); 2. Saffron-crowned tanager (Tangara xanthocephala); 3. Green honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza); 4. Black-capped tanager (f) (Tangara heinei); 5. White-necked jacobin (Florisuga mellivora); 6. Crowned woodnymph (Thalurania colombica); 7. Red-headed barbet (Eubucco bourcierii); 8. Long-tailed sylph (Aglaiocercus kingii); 9. Andean emerald (Amazilia franciae); 10. Crimson-rumped toucanet (Aulacorhynchus haematopygus); 11. Spectacled parrotlet (Forpus conspicillatus); 12. Common potoo (Nyctibius griseus); 13. Black vulture (Coragyps atratus); 14 & 15. Multicolored tanager (Chlorochrysa nitidissima); 16. Orange-bellied euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster); 17. Rufous-tailed hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl); 18 & 19. Andean emerald (Amazilia franciae); 20. Brown violetear (Colibri delphinae); 21. Blue-winged mountain tanager (Anisognathus somptuosus); 22. Andean emerald (Amazilia franciae); 23. Western emerald (Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus); 24. Golden tanager (Tangara arthus); 25. Green honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)